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Hair Care Glossary: 50 Terms You Need to Know

From AHA to xanthan gum — the hair care terms and ingredients defined in plain language.

May 1, 20262 min read
In this article
  1. 01A
  2. 02B
  3. 03C
  4. 04D
  5. 05E
  6. 06F
  7. 07G
  8. 08H
  9. 09I
  10. 10K
  11. 11L
  12. 12M
  13. 13N
  14. 14O
  15. 15P
  16. 16Q
  17. 17R
  18. 18S
  19. 19T
  20. 20U
  21. 21Z
  22. 22Still unfamiliar?

A

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) — Exfoliants like lactic or glycolic acid.

Amodimethicone — A silicone that bonds to hair, providing long-lasting softness. Less buildup than Dimethicone.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate — A strong anionic surfactant. Very cleansing, drying.

B

Behenyl Alcohol / Behentrimonium Methosulfate — Fatty conditioning agents. Great for slip and detangling.

Bond-builder — Product that rebuilds broken disulfide bonds. Olaplex No.3, K18.

C

Cetearyl Alcohol — Fatty alcohol, conditioning. NOT drying.

Ceramide — Lipid that rebuilds the hair's protective barrier.

Chelating — Binds to minerals (iron, calcium) to remove them from hair. Good for hard water.

Clarifying — Deep-cleaning shampoo removing buildup.

CO-wash — Using conditioner as shampoo. For curly/coily hair.

Cuticle — The outermost layer of hair; protective "shingles."

D

Dimethicone — Common silicone, smoothing. Non-soluble version builds up.

Disulfide bonds — The strongest bonds in hair. Broken by bleach and heat.

E

Elasticity — Hair's ability to stretch and return. A marker of health.

Emollient — An ingredient that softens (like oil or butter).

F

F-layer / 18-MEA — The thin waxy outer coating on healthy hair.

Fatty alcohol — Conditioning alcohol (Cetyl, Cetearyl, Stearyl). Not drying.

G

Glycerin — Humectant; pulls moisture from air or products.

Glucoside (Decyl, Lauryl, Coco) — Gentle non-ionic surfactants.

H

Humectant — Ingredient that pulls water (glycerin, propylene glycol).

Hydrolyzed protein — Protein broken into smaller pieces so it can penetrate hair.

Hygral fatigue — Weakening from repeated water swelling.

I

INCI — International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The ingredient list.

K

Keratin — The main protein in hair.

Ketoconazole — Antifungal ingredient for dandruff/SD.

L

LOC/LCO method — Liquid-Oil-Cream or Liquid-Cream-Oil layering for moisture.

Low porosity — Cuticle is closed; resists moisture absorption.

M

Malassezia — A yeast that causes seborrheic dermatitis.

MI/MCI (Methylisothiazolinone) — Preservative. Banned in EU leave-on products.

N

Niacinamide — Vitamin B3. Strengthens skin barrier.

Non-ionic — Mild class of surfactants (glucosides).

O

Olaplex — Bond-builder brand; specifically rebuilds disulfide bonds.

Omega-3 — Fatty acid that supports scalp health.

P

Panthenol / Pro-Vitamin B5 — Humectant, soothing, strengthens hair.

PEG — Polyethylene glycol. Makes non-soluble ingredients water-soluble.

pH — Acidity level. Hair works best at 4.5–5.5.

Piroctone olamine — Gentle antifungal; alternative to zinc pyrithione.

Porosity — How much water hair absorbs.

Q

Quaternium-15 — Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Avoid.

R

Relaxer — Chemical that permanently straightens hair by breaking disulfide bonds.

S

Sebum — Natural oil from scalp sebaceous glands.

Seborrheic dermatitis — Inflammatory skin condition causing yellow, greasy flakes.

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) — Harsh anionic surfactant.

SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) — Milder than SLS.

Squalane — Stable light oil, similar to natural sebum.

Surfactant — Cleansing agent (shampoo).

T

Telogen effluvium — Temporary shedding after stressor, illness, childbirth.

Traction alopecia — Hair loss from constant tension.

U

UV filter — Sunscreen ingredients for hair products.

Z

Zinc pyrithione — Antifungal in many dandruff shampoos.

Still unfamiliar?

The Mutaly quiz explains what each recommendation means in plain language, so you don't need to memorize any of this.

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