Three subtypes
4A: Small springy coils, S-shaped. Some sheen when moisturized.
4B: Z-pattern bending, sharper angles. Less defined than 4A without product.
4C: Tightest coils, often undefined pattern. Highest shrinkage (up to 75%). Most moisture-sensitive.
Why type 4 hair needs different care
- Coil shape creates many weak points along the strand — every bend is a potential break
- Natural oils travel poorly → the ends are always dry
- High porosity is common (coils' structure doesn't seal water well)
- Highest shrinkage of all types (appears much shorter than it is)
- Most sensitive to manipulation
Core principle: maximum moisture, minimum manipulation
Every step of the routine should:
- Add or retain moisture
- Minimize pulling, tugging, or breaking
- Protect the cuticle
- Respect the natural coil shape
The LOC/LCO Method
Liquid → Oil → Cream (or reverse: LCO for higher porosity)
Layered moisture sealing. Apply in order:
- Liquid: water, aloe vera, or water-based leave-in
- Oil: coconut (for low porosity), jojoba, argan, or castor
- Cream: rich butter-based cream for sealing
LOC works for low porosity (oil penetrates first, cream seals). LCO works for high porosity (cream absorbs, oil seals on top).
Wash day
- Pre-poo with oil, 30 min to overnight
- Shampoo or co-wash — gentle surfactants, focus on scalp
- Deep condition with heat (steamer, plastic cap under warm dryer) 20–30 min
- Detangle in sections with fingers or seamless wide-tooth comb, only with conditioner
- Rinse cool
- Style wet with LOC/LCO
Protective styling
Type 4 thrives with protective styles: braids, twists, buns, wigs. These:
- Reduce daily manipulation
- Retain moisture
- Protect ends from friction
Rules:
- Keep for 2–4 weeks max per style
- Moisturize every 2–3 days underneath
- Don't install too tight (causes traction alopecia)
- Always take down gently with conditioner
Daily care
- Silk or satin bonnet at night — essential
- Pineapple or loose braids for sleep
- Refresh with water + leave-in, scrunch to reactivate pattern
- Never brush dry — finger detangle only
Shrinkage is not damage
A 4C coil can appear inches shorter than its true length. This is normal and healthy. Fighting it with heat to "see length" causes damage.
Techniques to stretch without heat:
- Banding (sectioning with soft ties)
- Twist-outs
- Braid-outs
- African threading
Common mistakes
- Washing too often (2–4 weeks between full washes is fine)
- Using sulfate shampoo
- Skipping deep conditioning
- Combing dry
- Styles too tight
- Trimming too rarely (ends become fragile from shrinkage cycling)
Product musts
- Rich leave-in with shea or mango butter
- Penetrating oil (coconut for low porosity, argan for high)
- Stretching/defining cream
- Satin bonnet or pillowcase
- Wide-tooth comb (seamless)
- Silk scrunchies
When it's personal
4A with low porosity has different moisture needs than 4A with high porosity. Damaged vs virgin coils need different levels of protein.
Mutaly's quiz combines coil pattern with porosity, density, damage, and moisture-protein signals for a routine that actually fits.