Three subtypes
3A: Loose, large spiral curls. Circumference of sidewalk chalk. Usually shiny, more flexible.
3B: Tight springy curls. Circumference of Sharpie marker. Dense, drier than 3A.
3C: Tight corkscrew curls. Circumference of pencil. Very dense, prone to shrinkage, driest of type 3.
Universal curly truths
- Natural oils don't travel well down the coil → ends are always drier than roots
- Brushing when dry destroys curl pattern and causes frizz
- Sulfates strip the oils curls desperately need
- Most damage comes from heat, brushing, and dry handling
- Shrinkage (hair appears shorter when dry) is natural, not a problem
The wash day routine
1. Pre-poo (optional, recommended for 3C)
Apply oil (coconut, argan, jojoba) to dry hair, sit 30 min to overnight. Protects from shampoo stripping.
2. Wash
- Sulfate-free shampoo on scalp only
- Or co-wash (cleansing conditioner) for 3A/3B who need less cleansing
- For 3C with dryness: co-wash most times, clarify monthly
3. Condition
- Section hair into 4
- Apply conditioner generously to lengths
- Detangle with fingers or wide-tooth comb — only when coated with conditioner
- Rinse with cool water, leave some in
4. Style on soaking wet hair
- Apply leave-in first
- Then a styling cream or gel
- "Praying hands" method — smooth product down each section
- Scrunch upward to encourage curl formation
5. Dry
- Plop in microfiber towel 10–20 min
- Diffuse on low heat, cup curls toward scalp, don't move hair around
- Or air dry untouched
- "Cast" (crunchy gel feel) is good — scrunch out crunch when 100% dry
Key ingredients
Pro for curls:
- Shea butter (moisture lock)
- Cocoa butter
- Glycerin (in normal humidity)
- Hydrolyzed wheat, rice, keratin protein
- Behentrimonium methosulfate (detangling)
- Ceramides
Limit or avoid:
- Sulfates in daily shampoo
- Non-water-soluble silicones
- Drying alcohols (Alcohol denat. high in INCI)
- Very heavy oils on 3A roots
Protein-moisture balance for curls
Curls are fussy. Too much protein = crunchy, hard curls. Too little = mushy, no definition.
Signs you need protein:
- Curls look stretched out, not springy
- Mushy when wet
- Breaks easily
Signs you need moisture:
- Crunchy feel that doesn't scrunch out
- Curls feel tight, stiff, dry
- Frizz despite products
Alternate mask types weekly: one moisture, one protein, repeat.
Night care
- Silk or satin pillowcase (non-negotiable)
- Pineapple method: loose high ponytail with soft scrunchie
- Bonnet or head wrap for longer style preservation
- Never sleep on a cotton pillowcase
Refresh routine
Between washes:
- Spritz water + leave-in (mixed in spray bottle)
- Smooth through curls
- Scrunch to revive pattern
- Let air dry or diffuse briefly
When 3A ≠ 3A
Same curl pattern can need opposite products if:
- One has high porosity (bleached), one doesn't
- One has oily scalp, one has dry
- One has thin density, one has thick
The Mutaly quiz combines all these factors so you don't just get "here's some curl cream" advice.